12 April 2004

Well Eric, Mark, Sylvia and I arrived via road trip at the south rim. Annie was flying in that night.  I had to take the other three to Mather Point.  It was a great introduction to the enormity of the Grand Canyon.  Unfortunately I wasn’t paying attention to when I did my permit and scheduled the trip right over Easter weekend.  The South Rim was packed. 

Of course we did all the touristy photographs from all the overlooks.  Great fun.  I showed them the South Kaibab trail from Mather Point and the route down.  I think it was actually starting to sink in finally for them

We all met the next morning at Maswick Cafeteria and Annie made it in OK late last night.  It was a quick breakfast since we had to catch the express shuttle over to Yaki Point at 0700.   Like every trip, I was anxious to get started and hit the trail.

We started our hike down taking our time.  It was still a little chilly in the shade and we were all bundled up in fleece, but quickly started shedding clothing once we hit the sun above Cedar Ridge.  There we took our first break and ditched the warm clothing.  We went out to the point for the photos and a very camera loving squirrel.   

From there we headed down passing mule trains until we reached Skeleton Point – love that name and definitely more photo opportunities.  For those who have never descended the South Kaibab it is a series of steps (erosion breaks) for a couple of miles.  It is not until you really descend past the Tip Off that these steps start to taper off.  After a few more section of steps you enter the top of the Vishnu and the trail becomes more uniform.  I was getting a little concern about the rising heat.  As I looked back up the trail I could see the heat radiating in distorting waves.  Although my entire group were seasoned backpackers, hiking down into the canyon where it gets actually hotter, can have a profound impact.  So far everyone seemed to be doing fine.  I pushed on a head until I got to Black Bridge and hiked across where there was cool air blowing down the river and waited for the others.   

We entered BA camp and Sylvia picked a nice camp for us to fit our 4 tents.  After those camp chores and ditching the hiking boots, we all walked up to the cantina for some nice cold ones.  I stopped into the rangers’ station and checked on Clear Creek Trail.  The rangers stated that the trail was fine, but the temperatures were rising this week and they highly recommended that we hike most of it in the dark.  Crap.  Flashbacks of my 2000 trip were coming to mind.  While sitting over in the cantina, we were chatting with a gentleman that just came off of Clear Creak 

“Yup, that’s right it was hotter than Hell’s Kitchen up there.” 

Crap. Again.  I felt my heart sink.  Not only did I not want to hike in that type of heat, but I was pretty sure none of my friends would either.  I hoofed back over and to the ranger station and tried for an itinerary change.  I spoke to Ranger Mullin and she called up to check (highly unlikely, but worth a shot). Nothing at BA. Nothing at Indian.  How about two night at Cottonwood instead?  Score.  Canyon Magic – whatever you want to call it that was better than getting roasted.  With Cheyava not running, I know I would not disappoint with Ribbon.  I couldn’t get that itinerary if I tried.  Eric said he knew I had scored with the itinerary changed by the huge smile on my face when I got back.  Time to enjoy that Tecate now.