This hike did not turn out what I expected except for the beauty of Havasu Falls. The Grand Canyon is a magnificent World Heritage Site that needs to be preserved. I was both disappointed and disgusted at the level of trash along the Havasu Canyon Trail as well as at the campsite. To actually find a discarded port-a-potty at my campsite shows the complete disregard for the value and environmental fragileness of this area. I also noticed that several picnic tables were moved into the middle of the creek. I wonder what the effect of rusty metal and chemically treated wood has on the effect of the creek. How long will it be before Havasu Falls or Mooney Falls below runs brown instead of blue-green? My initial anger was initially directed at the tourists that flood the area, but after passing Supai I couldn't help wonder how much was contributed by the local population.

Regardless, there is a trash problem that needs to be addressed. Not only does the area need to be cleaned, and policed on a regular basis, but there needs to be an education of the tourists as well as the local population on the detrimental impact (other than a few "Do Not Litter signs"). I have to admit, this observation created a greater reverence for our National Park backcountry rangers on their continued vigilance they provide in protecting our national parks as well as educating the visitors. I wonder if the Indian reservation could not leverage the lessons from our national parks and implement some training for at least a few rangers to patrol and educate the visitors and local population as some means of a preventative measure. I don t believe this to be a naive musing, but rather a possible solution to what I perceive as a serious problem.

The party atmosphere was definitely not what I was looking for at Havasu Falls, but I cannot blame the young adults for having good innocent fun regardless of the noise level.  By dinner time the camp was quiet so at least there was a respect for quiet in the evening hours.

Unfortunately on this hike I developed a head-cold which caused me to shorten the trip, basically canceling it. In my decision to depart immediately, I unfortunately subjected myself to the midday heat of the canyon. I was concerned with the way I was feeling that if my health degenerated even more that it would be even more difficult to extricate myself if I waited yet another day. My thought process was get out now while I still had strength and ample supplies. My original plan was to hike out the following day while it was still dark and make it to Hualapai Hilltop by first light. So much for best intentions.

I was right on target with my time in heading out the Espalande break, but already tired from hiking 12 miles (remember I hiked to/from Havasu and then did Mooney before I left). The last mile in the sun really stung me. I cannot help but scrutinize my decision with that almighty 20/20 hindsight ( should have I taken the helicopter out or even paid to have my gear hauled out by mule?  Should I have stay and left in the dark even if I felt worse?).

I have hiked and worked in deserts more times than I can count an I am acutely aware how arid climates can rapidly dehydrate you. By the time I ran into difficulties I had already taken in close to 150 fluid ounces of liquid mixed with some form of an electrolyte additive. I had taken in plenty of liquids, eaten regularly, and paced myself with regular short breaks prior to heading out of the red wall. I made the first 9 miles in about 3 hours - it took me over an hour to complete the last mile (and this was one of the easiest trails in the canyon). My last 20 or 30 fluid ounces of water had turned foul (was extremely warm) and for the most part useless in helping reduce my core body temperature. A small ice cold bottle of water from a generous wrangler and some time in the shade basically rejuvenated me. Once on top I consumed another 40 fluid ounces of Gatorade and another bottle of water on my drive home.   Twice now the canyon has bitten me.  My reverence for this formidable environment has deepened with every visit and every challenge (even when it hurts - GRIN).