I
definitely wanted to get to the trailhead early and
beat the heat. I still had some good sinus pressure
and my head still felt fuzzy from last night (I was
praying that I wasn’t getting a damn cold). I made
oatmeal in my hotel room using the coffee pot for
hot water. My early start dictated getting on the
road before any restaurant in the area opened. It is
a 61 mile drive to the trailhead down Route 18. The
drive is pretty as it takes you to the end of the
Hualapai reservation to the Havasupai reservation
across some beautiful open range. Since it is open
range be ready for those unexpected bovines to
meander onto the road (explain that one to your
insurance company). The last 2 miles of road
descends through the Kaibab formation to two small
parking lots near the trailhead. Good luck finding
a place to park – I lucked out and squeezed my small
SUV between two large pickups.
I
tossed on my rig on and descended the trailhead – I was
a bit horrified to seen huge amounts of trash all
over the trailhead area (my first guess was that
maybe a trash can blew over). The trail to Supai is
8 miles long with another 2 miles to Havasu Falls
camp. This
trail is one of the easiest in the canyon. I made
short work of the switchbacks and made it to the
foundation of what looks like the beginning/remains
of a rest house. I rounded the bend and you are
rewarded with a spectacular view of the Esplanade
break and Mt. Sinyella. The trail to Supai follows
the break through the Supai Group and down the wash all the way to the
village. There is no need even for a map (which I
am an avid believer of having with me at all
times). The path is as defined and all you need to
do is follow the thousands of footprints. I entered
the
Esplanade break and came across a
Supai villagers and their
families making there way back
home.
As
I continued down the
Esplanade break and into the
wash, I couldn’t help think what happens to this
area during the monsoon season and all the flash
flooding. There is hardly any high ground to get to
as you descend into the break. The trail, as you
descend into the break, is almost level. I use
hiking poles and after I entered the Esplanade, I
actually carried them almost all the way to Supai.
Now, as I hiked I became increasingly disgusted.
Everywhere, there was trash along the trail. It
consisted mostly of discarded water bottles and I
was starting to fume at the complete disrespect by
us “tourists” of an incredibly beautiful area.
Although, as I hiked I started to wonder how much
may have actually been contributed by the locals as
I also started to see other trash such as feed bags
and such.
At
one of the bends I heard the rumble of horse
hooves. Yes rumble. I leaped to get out of the way
– the mules and horses are driven up and down the
canyon like a cattle stampede by the local wranglers
when they are not carrying any loads. As I stood on
a big rock in the middle of the wash they all went
flying past in a cloud of dust (cough – gasp).
I
made it Supai about 2.5 hours – made great time…
The village of Supai is quaint, but also reflects
what I also found on the trail. The lodge and
camping office are also here. I stopped in the
camping office to briefly pick up my permit and then
headed down to the falls. On the way down you get a
glimpse of Navajo Falls and the water is a blue
green- Havasu falls comes into view and that view is
awesome. I descended the trail and into camp. The
camp follows the stream below Havasu Falls and there
are campsites on each side of the stream.
There was
a lot of activity going on and the campsite which
seemed like one big party area. The camp was
primarily comprised of by youngins (from the
Dictionary of Briski: youngin (Someone in
their mid twenties that still like to whoop and
holler at the top of their lungs because they think
it’s cool). I finally found an open camp site down
a ways secluded by some brush and trees near the
canyon wall. I was thoroughly disgusted by the fact
that I had to clean the area of trash before I could
pitch my tent. In the brush someone actually left
behind a homemade port-a-potty! I thought about
pitching my tent near the canyon wall but it was
clear people were using it as a urinal (I would see
several use it for this purpose while I was in
camp).
After relaxing a bit I headed over to the falls for
a dip. The youngins were whooping it up and having
a good ol’ time. So much for any serenity. At
least the eye-candy was worth it (hmmm young 20 year
olds in their teeny-bikinis – may need to rethink
this here – grin). While I was wading into the cool
(somewhat cold) blue green water – I still couldn’t
help notice all the trash along the falls. What a
crime – such a magnificent area and complete
disregard for protecting the area for one’s own
hedonistic pursuits. I parked my self on the ledge
making sure I didn’t block the view of a couple. I
was starting to doze a little, but all the hollering
and carrying on by the kiddies offered little
reprieve – it was nothing more than one big party.
I headed back to camp and snoozed and read a while
before dinner. There is drinking water from a
spring located in the middle of the camp. There is
also a small hut near this spring where the water is
treated with chlorine (the nozzle is on the other
side and at first I didn’t even see it).
Fortunately by dinner time all the partying seemed
to die down and there was a peacefulness in camp.
Also note – there are NO food storage canisters at
this camp (like you have in the Grand Canyon
National Park) – bring some rope to hang your food
bag.