Sunday 18 April 2004
The
next morning was calm and there were still a lot of clouds in the
sky – very little damage to the camp other than some leaves and
twigs blown around. I got an early start and headed out around 6.
the rest of the camp was still a sleep by the time I made the climb
out of Monument. If you are heading east out of camp you need to
exit the camp at the streambed and follow the streambed up stream
paying attention to cairns – the trail switchbacks out of the canyon
onto the Tonto.
The
Tonto was amazing and the remains of the storm clouds made for some
excellent pictures. I was really making good time on the Tonto and
I made it Cedar Creek by 7; Salt by 8 (took a 15 minute break); Horn
by 1030 (took 30 minute break) and Indian Garden by 1230. The
various side canyon and amphitheaters were wonderful and I can see
why many like this hike on the Tonto.
While at Horn I committed a mortal sin in the desert and dumped
excess water. The water between Hermit and Indian is contaminated.
Horn Creek is posted, but the backcountry office is now saying that
the water at Salt and Cedar is also contaminated from the uranium
mining. Some now even believe Hermit may be also. I was concerned
that I was going to need a lot of water remembering all too well my
hike on Clear Creek where I got cooked. However this hike was early
in the morning, easier, and mostly in the shade (due the storm
clouds and the fact that you are on the Southside and well with in
the shadows of the South Rim for the better part of the morning). I
was lugging 250 fluid ounces of water and I barely used about 50-60
by the time I got to Horn.
I
made it Indian and took campsite 4 looking down the Bright Angel
trail. I have camped at this site before and have enjoyed it. I
kicked back and took a nice break that afternoon – my feet were a
little sore, but I planned on going out to Plateau Point for the
sunset.
It
was another wonderful sunset at Plateau Point and I chatted with
some of the other campers. Like my last time here I planned on
hiking back in the dark under the starts. There was another
gentleman there named Mike whom asked me I wanted to share a cigar
with him (he was having a cigar in remembrance of his son who he
scatted his ashes off the point just the past year (see
www.stevesdream.com). Really nice and I enjoyed his conversation
and night hike back.
One
of the most phenomenal attractions of the Canyon is the incredible
people I meet there every time I return.