Well I arrived at the Grand Canyon by mid afternoon and pulled into the parking lot at Bright Angel Lodge (behind the cabins) right along the rim.  I was suffering from one hell of a headache. As I stepped out of my car and walked to the rim, I then noticed something large in my peripheral vision.  My senses were dulled and it wasn’t clicking as to why the tourists in front of me were scattering.  As I stood there, a California Condor landed no more than 10 feet in front of me on a rock outcropping.  Thank God I had my camera with me.

Wednesday, April 3, 2002 

I awoke early and grabbed an early breakfast at Maswik cafeteria.  I took the shuttle over to Yaki Point and started down the South Kaibab.  I brought my daypack, a 1900 cubic inch Kelty Torrey with me for this part of the trip.  Since I was staying at Phantom Ranch and had a reservation for their steak dinner,  I didn’t need a lot of equipment.  I had some raingear, first aid kit, water bladder, and some miscellaneous gear.  It felt great to have so little weight.  The ultra light backpackers may actually have something to their philosophy.

 I started down the trail at 7:20, almost the same exact time from 2 years ago.   I made pretty good time making it to Cedar Ridge by 8:00.  I stopped for about 10 minutes to swap out socks and check my foot taping.  I wasn’t going to make the same error from my first trip.  Since then I am a complete and total convert in the use of cloth duct tape and swapping out my socks every couple of hours for a dry pair.  I made it to Skeleton Point by 8:40 and the Tip-Off by 9:40 and to the end of Black Bridge by 10:30.  I took a solid 2 hours off my time from my last trip down the South Kaibab.  The trip down was pretty uneventful.  I had only a couple of mule-trains pass me on the way up.  There was hardly any contact with other hikers.  One of the mule trains was packing out garbage from Phantom.  I couldn’t help but grin when I noticed one mule carrying nothing but Tecate cans.

 I checked into Phantom, picked out my bunk, and headed over to the Canteen for a cold one and a snack (A Tecate and a Snickers bar – what a combo).  I rested up for about an hour.  My plan was to head up Phantom Creek and explore the area up there and make it back to the Phantom no later than 4:30 (Dinner was at 5:00 and I wasn’t planning on missing my steak!). 

I headed up the North Kaibab trail around noon and crossed over the Bright Angel Creek and into the Phantom Creek area.  Phantom Creek is pretty easy to follow.  You go up only about a third of a mile and you are confronted with a waterfall.  To get around the fall there is a slight rock scramble over a talus field to the left.  It is not very difficult at all.  I followed the path and it takes you above the waterfall.  I continued to hike up Phantom Creek a ways.  This trip I had only my Teva Mushes (they are like a flip flop) to save weight.  They weigh a mere 7 ounces compared to my Teva sport sandals, which are almost 2 pounds. I wish I had the sport sandals for this portion.  I would drop my pack several time and switch between boots and Tevas to cross deeper sections of the creek.  Sport sandals would have been much better in this instance for I would have been able to hike the trail part without having to switch.  The Teva Mush is not particular good at all for hiking.  

 I continued to hike up stream until I came across a small waterfall and wading pool.  At this point I did not see any traverse above the waterfall.  The only way to cross at this point is to wade in and pull yourself over the waterfall.  I stripped down and left my gear on the smooth schist ledge and started to wade down the slope of the pool.  I wasn’t even a third the way down the slope and the water was already over my waist (and I am 6 foot).  I figured the water would be almost over my head by the time I reach the end of the slope.  I decided it was not worth it at this point and this area was just perfect to lounge for awhile and just kick back; it was my own private little wading pool.  The water was chilly but not bad.  The temperature was about 92 in the shade. 

About 2:30 I started to head back.  I went through the several shoe changes again.  When I got to the lower portion of Phantom I decide to just hike down the center of the creek in the Tevas.  The creek bed is fairly flat with few rocks.  When I got to Bright Angel Creek I crossed just below the small rapids (like an idiot).  With two feet to go, my Teva side slipped on my foot and  I tripped doing a face plant into the creek tossing my dry boots and socks into the water.  I  cursed myself for not putting my boots back on and crossing above the small rapids.  I stood there on the bank a watched blood spew from my middle toe.   Great  - foot repair. 

 When I got back to Phantom I checked the toe, which was smarting pretty good at that point.  What I thought was a blood blister under the toenail was in fact a piece of stone.  I had to drive a needle under the nail and scoop out the rock debris (and yes it did hurt like hell).  As I was finishing up, I noticed that a woman was looking a bit horrified at my little surgery.  Once the fragments were out, the pain went away and the toe would not give me any more problems from that point.  I continued to clean up and headed over to the Canteen for the steak dinner.  I talked to Ranger Pam Cox about the waterfall.  She explored the Phantom Creek portion herself and stated that when the water was lower you can in fact the haul yourself up the waterfall. 

 If you ever have the opportunity to stay at Phantom Ranch, I also recommend partaking in either the steak dinner or the beef stew dinner.   It truly is a wonderful treat and it is served family style.   The people I shared the table with were quite wonderful and I enjoyed listening to their stories of their trip down by mule.  After the meal I took in part of the ranger program.  Before Ranger Pam Cox could start, she had to excuse herself and run over to the bunkhouse.  The wranglers had started a fire in the fireplace and created quite a whopping of a chimney fire.  There were 6 foot flames shooting out of the chimney scattering flaming embers all over the ranch.  It looked like a giant Bic lighter.  Fortunately they were able to put the fire out and no secondary fires were created. 

 Trails:  South Kaibab:  This trail is a corridor trail and is well maintained.  All junctions are marked with signs.  There is a toilet at Cedar Ridge and at the Tip-off.  There is an emergency phone at the Tip-off.  The trail is very wide in most places.  Expect to be passed by mule trains heading up from Phantom Ranch.

Phantom Creek:  Follow the North Kaibab trail up into The Box.  Phantom Creek is on the left after you passed over the second foot bridge.  There really isn't much of a trail, however there is a footpath as it crosses the creek in several places.  To get around the first fall there is a slight rock scramble over a talus field to the left.  It is not very difficult at all.  You are eventually blocked by a small waterfall and wading pool about a mile up stream.  To clear this point and continue, you have to haul yourself over the fall.  This area is not recommended in July/August due to flash flooding.

Distance traveled: South Kaibab: 7 miles. Time: 3 hrs 10 min. 

Phantom Creek: Approximately 1.5 miles one way from Phantom Ranch.

Difficulty: South Kaibab: Moderately Strenuous.  Phantom Creek: Easy to Moderate