Putting the Sun at Our Backs

It was quite evident that the temperature every day was rising. El and I discussed a different game plan for going across the Clear Creek trail. Every 2 hours we would stop to swap out socks and take in food (even if we were munching along the way). I also decide to go with 100% Gatorade instead of the 50/50 split that I usually take. We had originally planned to leave in the night to beat the heat across the Tonto and allow the morning sun to stay at our backs. We got up around 03:45. The moon was full up, however its position on the western sky did not put any light on the eastern face where the trail out is located. The face was pitch black. I decided to watch El picking his way along the footpath that heads out of camp by the toilet. I wanted to see if he faired any better in the dark. He was moving slow and I could tell he was unsure of the path due to his intermittent progress (even with the mini maglite). Ironically, he erred and stepped off the path in the same place I did just 10 minutes before. That's all I needed to see. I decided to wait until first light. A misstep up there on that narrow trail would have tragic consequences. It was a full moon during our week there. When the moon was at its zenith, the floor of the canyon was incredibly well lit. However, when you are a mile down in a canyon, the degree of direct light from the sun and moon is narrower. We had basically missed our window of opportunity. We finally departed around 05:15, light was just beginning to illuminate the canyon.

I was a little weak going up the switchbacks, but the energy kicked in finally and the hike back to Phantom turned into one of the best hikes I have had in a long time. I was keeping a good clip and El was doing less of the slinky-maneuver that was common from the trip out. The sun stayed at our backs almost all the way to Demaray Point. We kept to the game plan and the feet really appreciated the dry socks. Going around Bradley Point, we met a group of 6 hikers heading over to Clear Creek. They were pretty strung out along the trail. What amazed me was that almost every one of them asked if there was water at Clear Creek. Obviously they didn't check first with the Backcountry Office. They would have been in dire straits if there was no water there with such high temperatures.

Of course I made sure I hit at least a couple of Agave on the way back for good measure. El kept stubbing his toe again so I usually had a good fix on his position behind me by his stream curses that he was directing at the rocks. Misery likes company. It was definitely getting hot out there. The Cicadas were chirping quite loudly. Ironically those bugs make it seem like its 10 degrees hotter. I was kicking up my usual number of lizards on the trail. If I saw one I saw a hundred. Coming down the switchbacks into Phantom I was really moving, even Mr. Roadrunner commented on the pace.

We basically made it back to Phantom before noon. I have read other hikers taking between 5 and 9 hours to cover the Clear Creek trail, so I was quite happy with our time for that day. The temperature was really climbing that day. We discovered that the park was setting record highs for that month. It would reach a 100 in the shade at Phantom. Forecast for tomorrow 102. We did wonder about the other two hikers that were at Clear Creek. They were supposed to have left the same day also. We hoped they didn't sleep in too late. Two people had the pleasure of paying the $2,500 Evac-helicopter ride to the top that week from Phantom. One man was a 300+ pounds. The ranger said it took him over 8 hours to come down the South Kaibab. What the hell was he thinking?!?!? He had ruptured blood vessels in one of his legs. El saw him on a stretcher in the ranger station.

Dinner that night consisted of Couscous, dried fruit, some trail mix, and several damn cold Tecates at the Phantom Canteen. Ya' got to love the fact that they bring in beer by mule train. I was definitely in my "happy place" at this time. I firmly believe if they hadn't had beer at Phantom, El would be packing a quarter keg. Why not, he took everything else with him. The rangers that evening were urging all hikers to be gone before 06:00 due to the heat. I would see groups leave the following morning as early as 03:30 from camp.

Distance Traveled: 11 miles. Time: 6 hrs. 15 min.